My life as a sommelier can offer some compensatory moments. One of the latest was a unique tasting around the 1947 vintage, at the Hôtel Beau Rivage in Geneva, Switzerland. Lafite, Margaux, Haut-Brion… the Bordeaux grands crus stood shoulder to shoulder, and offered the following delights, and disappointments, during this unforgettable horizontal tasting.

Majestic Château Lafite

A legendary year in Bordeaux, 1947 gave rise to some fantastic wines, of which the Château Lafite is a stunning example. Subtle, refined, with its tertiary aromas, its classical nuances of humus and forest floor, incense and precious woods, cedar and havana, the utter finesse and velvety texture are highly pleasing. The 1947 may not be one of the most opulent years, yet it reveals outstanding, timeless plenitude. True majesty.

Château Margaux below par

Still on cloud nine, I turned to the Château Margaux. And was cruelly disappointed. Not one of the three bottles opened belied the sensation of a wine past its prime. The faded feeling was confirmed on the palate. Fortunately, there was the Château Gruaud-Larose. The first vintage by Jean Cordier, the 1947 Gruaud-Larose gives up impressive freshness in the aromas (cedar, pencils…), impressive constitution, concentration. The only drawback arose from the tannins, slightly lagging on the finish, which detracted from the wine’s noble bearing. My faith renewed by this lovely Gruaud-Larose, I focused my attention on the 1947 Château Latour 1947. An outstanding Pauillac ! Very ripe, with notes of wild black fruit, cocoa and spice, Oriental wood, its lacquered character endows it with fascinating complexity. Still very full of life, this Château Latour is spellbinding.

Château Mouton Rothschild, a favorite

Château Mouton Rothschild, still a deuxième cru classé in 1947, was next. An explosion of youth ! The utter class of the Cabernet-Sauvignon squared off with the maturity of the vintage. This Château Mouton Rothschild is sumptuous, and has great span that leaves the illustrious 1982 in its shadow. We then moved on to Château La Mission Haut-Brion, followed by Château Haut-Brion, which was more solar. Notes of brandied fruit, black olive, larded nuances give it a Languedoc character. The Mission Haut-Brion, my favorite, towers above. Fabulous aromatic complexity (black truffle, leather), with the fruit still present. A very harmonious wine which time has not harmed. A bit akin to Cheval Blanc, which was in splendid form, and has taken on a southern profile. Simply smelling it was reminiscent of a Valpolicella Amarone, with notes of cocao and tapenade.

Outstanding Château d’Yquem