Questions to a Wine Waiter...

The profession of sommelier is one where human contact is highly important. The poetic dimension of wine stimulates peoples' imaginations, and fuels their curiosity and interest. This made me think that some of the questions I am asked - the frequent questions, the unusual questions, the relevant questions - whether by journalists or wine lovers - could be of interest to you too.

Question of the month:

What wines display the best aromas of leather ?

My thoughts turn to certain Greek wines, but also to other wines - dessert wines, wines with amazing aromas of leather, like a Havana cigar, or even a cigar humidor for that matter. Here I am referring to the 1999 Chortes cuvee, from the Mercouri estate. Be careful though, for leather is a transient aroma, one that evolves. It is a secondary or tertiary aroma, not a primary one ! If it were a primary aroma, that would mean there was a bacterial problem with the wine. With a young wine, the aroma of leather can indeed be related to a bacteria which can be in the wood. It could come from poor rinsing  ... So be careful, because it is not normal to find leather aromas in a young wine. Leather aromas occur when the wine is evolving !

Do aromas of  leather depend on the region ?

Indeed, leather aromas come from warm regions - they will be sensed on wines from the south. Unlike wines from northern latitudes, when a southern wine ages, it can well develop aromas of leather ...
 
Which wines best express aromas of leather ?

The Mediterranean appellations best express leather. Of course, there are some aromas of leather or cigar on some Bordeaux that are over thirty years old, such as a Pessac-Leognan or a  Haut-Brion for example. But the major tendency toward leather is going to come from the Syrah in a 1966 Bandol red. It will take at least 15 years for this aroma to develop nicely. The Côte de Provence wines also exhale scents of truffles. This is their animal side, very fur, very gamy, the animal skin that we like in this wine. This will also be found with the southern Côtes du Rhône, in Chateauneuf du Pape or Gigondas wines. This leather aroma is also found in the Languedoc, the Corbières and the Minervois. Outside of France, you'd have to go to Spain or Italy to find it. Or along the coast of Croatia. The longer the wine ages, the more this aroma will be present.

Leather is an aroma you might want to look for, but you would not want it to be overpowering !

From the magazine "Le Soulier & Célébrités" in December 2004.