Montrachet from top to bottom 

A vertical tasting of Montrachet is an extraordinary, unforgettable  experience  for any wine lover. I am indebted to the Jacques Prieur estate for the fascinating opportunity of recently tasting no less than eleven vintages in the company of Nadine Gublin, the estate oenologist.

Royal balance

The 2005 immediately impresses with every distinction you expect of a Montrachet: power and firmness, perfect integration of the wood despite 20 months spent in new wood casks. Outstanding volume on the palate – a marvel of balance, the minerality worthy of a Charlemagne ensures persistency and finesse.

The 2004 does not have the same harmony and volume as the 2005. The style is more spherical, with lower acidity. The 2004 is easier to approach, more massive texture, average persistency.

The 2003 legitimately expresses the year’s power. It The wood is toasted, the palate opulent but devoid of any heaviness. Freshness is provided by a mineral touch which tames the generosity. The 2003 is total rectitude, the quintessence of Montrachet, to be forgotten in the cellar. Optimum maturity, outstanding integrity on the palate, minerality which approaches austerity, great persistency.

Finely hewn, like in Chablis a 2001 followed. Here the maturity was more heterogeneous, ready to drink. Classic style, endowed with a good acidity support, semi-powerful. It was superior to the 2000, which did not integrate the wood and evolves over notes of honey, herbal tea and fern. On the palate, it lacks breadth, with a aqueous point in its midst.
 

The 1999 reveals great complexity, outstanding textural finesse. A mineral dimension brings in honey, dried fruit, rush. The mouth is tense and nervy, the wine tightens, chiseled like a great Chablis.

The 1994 displays an autumnal palette, with slight oxidation. With average amplitude, it is meant to be drunk now.

The 1992 has a different style, developing humus, teacake, spice bread. On the palate, the matter crumbles, and acidity is lacking. The wine seems unbalanced. The 1991, a year reputed to be less good, is more complex and delicious today, with savours of grilled hazelnut and acacia.

We finished the tasting with the 1990.  And what a 1990 ! Once it has breathed, the wine reveals total splendor. Ripe and fresh, with notes of whole grain bread, sesame, biscuit. Magnificent on the palate, fat and ample, endowed with great persistency. An immense wine with the secret of eternal youth.