To go with fried fish, go for a touch of acidity

Fried fish and fried shellfish are a found in the cuisine of nearly every country throughout the world. One thing they have in common is the preparation method. The ingredients may or may not be breaded or coated prior to frying, but all are plunged into boiling oil to complete the cooking. Often served at the beginning of the meal, fried foods call for aromatic, refreshing thirst wines. The basis for the pairing lies in choosing good acidity,

capable of contrasting with the fat involved in the frying.  Another factor is the power, which must be carefully considered with respect to the intensity of the flavors of the fried fish. Personally, I tend to prefer fruity, easy-on-the-palate wines which can liven up the situation. Simple, light wines are the ones which best fill the bill.
In this vein, you will find that fried filet of perch goes beautifully with a Chasselas from the Valais. The fruity Chasselas grape is vivacious enough to respect the delicate flesh of perch while holding its own against the frying. I recommend the 2010 Président Troillet cuvée made by Marie-Thérèse Chappaz, a winemaker in Fully. Her selection of old vines clearly shows all the potential Chasselas has when the winemaker has the talent and know-how to let it fully express its terroir.

And what to serve with a delightful fry of Spanish baby squid, known as chipirons? It would go just right with white wines from Galicia. The Rias Baixas appellation, which uses the Albari?o varietal, produces wines which are light in alcohol and very refreshing. I advise that you try tasting the 2010 La Ca?a 2010. Juicy with fruit and limpid, it also displays great finesse. In the Ribeiro appellation, winemaker Emilio Rojo has produced a very classy white working with a blend of Albari?o, Treixadura, Lureiro, Lado and Torrontes. Part of the blend is barrel-aged while the remainder retains its classic, taut nature. Perfect ripeness.
In Portugal, fried cod dishes – the very symbol of Portuguese cuisine – can be beautifully paired with the vinhos verdes from the Traos-Os –Montes region. Taste a vinho verde made by highly-talented Dirk Nieeport. I suggest you try his cuvée Dócil, a varietal wine that is 100% Loureiro. The grapes grow on granite and the wine is made in a stainless tank. The lightness and fruit will blow you away. The utterly thirst-quenching sensation is thrilling.
And what about France, comes the question? Well in France, fried fish, whether fished in the river or in the sea, is most often served with a fruity dry white.  Loire river fish dishes call for a white Saumur or a great Anjou. My thoughts go to the well-crafted 2010 Saumur Blanc L’insolite from Les Roches Neuves estate. Since 2007, Thierry Germain has hit upon total precision and verve, making one of the best wood-aged wines in the appellation.
Smelt fries, served with a tartar sauce, go best with wines that let themselves go, such as the 2010 Jurançon sec La Part Davan from the Domaine Camin Larredya. Jean-Marc Grussaute excels in making white wines. This cuvée, made from gros and petit Mansengs, with just a touch of Courbu, expresses all the aromatic qualities without overdoing it and with none of the aromas derived from fermentation techniques. The fruitiness derives simply from its level of maturity.

La revue des vins de France / nov 2011